The Ganges (or Ganga) is the holiest river in India because it flows in the opposite direction if all the other rivers And it is therefore believed that it leads to Nirvana (the ultimate 'heavenly' place where you are at peace and are no longer part of the caste system).
The river that we saw was filthy brown but that did not stop people from bathing in, drinking from, and brushing teeth with it.
We went on a boat ride down the Ganges. Despite the intense heat, intense, it was a sweet experience as we saw Varanasi from a new angle: water level. We were toured around in a rickety old boat that was fueled by one guy. Neat authentic experience.
After this we headed to the most popular place on the river. It was super crowded because of the shiva festival. Orange filled the place. There were celebrations on the river, bathing and holy men vying for your attention. It was neat to just sit and watch. A man beside me was creating an offering of sorts: a stick decorated with flowers and other offering-worthy things complete with plastic jugs attached to it. My guess is that it would be released into the river. A vendor tried to sell me stuff. But I refused. Then they wanted to bless me. I said no. She said it would be good luck. I said I didn't need luck and she was astonished and didn't even want to hear it. She said "well you coming to Varanasi is good luck". I repeated that I didn't need luck, smiled and walked away. In hindsight, as I write this, I realize I should have been more forthcoming and bold and explained why I didn't need luck. I didn't suppress the truth I know, it just didn't come to my brain. As I watched the holy happenings at this holy river I was most intrigued by the folks in white at the top of the stairs. Hindus are generally in orange here. White is the Muslims. They were at the stairs where the Hindus would leave the river, directly but peacefully in their path. The muslims had literature and were essentially being missionaries to the Hindus. I don't know why this fascinated me so. Possibly because I only ever pictured Christians as missionaries/evangelists. Possibly because I so often see Hindus and Muslims as equal 'thems' in the 'us and them' worldview and here they are opposites, opposing each other. Possibly because I see it is the blind lesson the blind. Yep, I just wrote that. In this postmodernist culture where absolute truth is unpolitical, I just stated it. I believe I know the truth and the more I am here the more my heart aches for the bajillions of Muslims and Hindus who believe their future glory is based on their works, their hours, their offerings and their routines. As I observe, reflect, write and share I am becoming more and more assured in the truth I have been taught. Life here seems so empty and meaningless, to the point that I am becoming frustrated by it after a mere ten days. Grace really is amazing.
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